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Wise ‘Green’ King and Hero General continue to protect Tay spirit forest

  • In Khe Vap village, Bac Lang commune, local villagers continue to perform an ancient ceremony calling upon spirits to protect the forest, and celebrating the legacy of King Ma Pac Bo and the Hero General Sa Chau Ban Yen.

    In ancient times, a King named Ma Pac Bo came to Khe Vap, fighting invaders and bringing peace to the region. Finding the area to his liking he settled there and introduced different ways of living in harmony with nature and models for villagers to sustain themselves. He was held in great respect and his leadership was relied upon by the villagers. Also around the same time lived a general named Sa Chau Ba Yen, a veteran of many campaigns, expert with guns and explosives.  In old age, as a message to the people, he climbed the highest hill in the area and fired a gun shot with three cups of explosives. As the deafening sound echoed around the valleys and mountains he said: “Every village that can hear the explosion from my gun, should remember me and my message.” After his death, the local Tay ethnic group built a temple to worship and commemorate the King and The General.

    Since those times, and as long as anyone can remember, villagers organize ceremonies at the beginning of the year, two months later and around July to commemorate the two Heroes, and to ask them and the spirits of the forest to continue to provide security, health, good weather and good crops.

    Ceremony at the Holy Temple

    Every family sends a participant to the ceremonies, except the family of the Spirit Elder which provides two persons. Those who live outside the village but still cultivate some of the land of the village are also involved in the ceremony.

    Of the three annual ceremonies, the first ceremony of the year is the most important, taking place on the 2nd day of Tet. To be involved, each family must contribute some kind of offering, such as a plate of fried meat, a bottle of wine, or a bowl of coloured rice and incense.

    Later ceremonies do not have a fixed date, the village’s Spirit Elder selecting the most appropriate day of the month, usually in March. Often the day chosen will coincide with the completion of rice transplantation or the finishing of field work. Usually, each household contributes half a kilogram of meat (chicken, duck, pig are all accepted), a can of rice, a bottle of wine and incense.

    When everything is well prepared, the Spirit Elder starts to pray in a ceremony called Peace Worshiping. He asks the spirits to listen to those gathered at the ceremony and invites the villagers to send their wish to the spirits. The Spirit Elder also informs spirits about the presence of different clans in the village and asks for divine protection, shielding people from sickness and disease.

    The Spirit Elder asks the Spirits on behalf of the villagers to take away diseases and sickness to the sky, away from the suffering villagers. After that he requests good feed for the cattle, pigs, chickens, and their good health.  Previously, when wild beasts came from the forest and caught livestock, there were requests for protection. The last part of the ceremony requests good weather, bumper crops and enough food for everyone.

    Strangers, workers or relatives from other places attending the ceremony can also request protection. With the completion of formal ceremonies to the Heroes and spirits, some households can ask for other help such as finding timber for house building, protection for children in the army, lost livestock and others.  When praying people let the spirits know their name and position in the family in the hope that the spirits will hear and help.

    The ceremony is concluded with people sitting together waiting for the joss-sticks to finish smoldering. Whilst the joss-sticks are burning it is believed that the spirits are eating and receiving their prayers, so people gathered are forbidden to eat. The ceremony is an occasion for people to talk with each other, exchange experiences and to discuss together how to improve livelihoods and develop the village.

    Once the joss-sticks lay in ashes, so the eating and merry-making begins. It is a must that you invite people to come and share wine with you, as they believe that this behavior brings luck during the year. Everyone enjoys the ceremony, eat and drink as much as they can and only leave when they get drunk.

    Spirits who protect nature 

    Bac Lang commune is home to Tay, Dzao, Nung, San Chi, San Diu ethnic minorities spread over 11 villages of the commune. Each ethnic group has its own unique culture and habits which are passed through the generations. The custom of worshiping in the sacred temple of Tay ethnic group in Khe Vap is one fascinating example.

    The sacred temple is located under an ancient tree, surrounded by a lot of many precious trees such as ironwood and chestnut. The temple itself is a small simple open structure with four small posts supporting a cement roof which has replaced the bamboo sheets of previous generations. Although small and simple, the temple is considered the embodiment of the two Heroes’ Spirits who always shelter the villagers and punish vandals.

    According to the inhabitants of Khe Vap, anyone, either from outside the village or from within, damaging the temple or harvesting anything from the surrounding forest without asking permission from the spirits will be struck down by sickness, fatigue or loss of memory. People often share anecdotes illustrating this power. From Elder Lien:
     
    “Once upon a time, a man from our village went to the forest to get bush rope to tie his buffalo. When he was finished, he suddenly found himself unable to move, and couldn’t leave the forest. His family had to ask the Spiritual Elder to contact the spirits and to ask for their forgiveness. Luckily for the man the Elder was heard, he returned to normal and could go back home.”

    Elder Son admitted that he also had been punished once by the Spirits. He said: “In the past, once I cut wood in the temple forest. As soon as I went home, I felt pain in my legs and my whole body became very tired. My family had to approach the Spirit Elder to pray and ask for forgiveness. It helped me recover from the sickness.”

    The community as a whole believe strongly in the power of the temple and forest spirits. They believe the spirits look after and protect them, but will also punish the whole village, not just an individual, if they cut the temple forest or destroy the temple. This strong belief has enabled the sizeable area of spirit forests surrounding Khe Vap and nearby villages to be protected and managed well.

    CIRUM